What We Did On Our Winter Vacation

Written on April 1st, 2011 A special guest blog by Mam Lamin Cham aka David Green aka My Dad Most importantly, we made it. Three months and three attempts, but it worked. It did actually snow the morning we left but only flurries and we arrived on schedule to find Lindsey at the airport. We were all too excited for words. Then the fun really started. What does one do in the Gambia--The Smiling Coast of Africa? Settling In PCVs are given a chance to "settle in" so that's what we did. Three nights at Mama's--a typical local hotel run by a expatriate, with lots of walking and talking and meeting friends, and visiting Lindsey's haunts, both professional (the Peace Corps office, the bank) and personal (a local bar called with great irony, The Scottish Embassy). It was great fun to be a PCV again. Within 24 hours we were drinking beer (Julbrew) and talking about Gambian customs, digestion and food. From there we moved up country, local transport, to Lindsey's village--Kerr Jarga Jobe. Language and Culture In KJJ we were at Lindsey's mercy. There, she is Ramatoulie, and she speaks Wolof 24/7. It's amazing. She waggles her finger, shakes her pony tail and her butt , and makes jokes. The kids giggle as she tickles them, the teenagers demand to borrow her lotions and ointments, the old ladies joke about everything, and the moms correct her. Everyone chatters and joke. We spend hours--literally--walking about the dusty village, greeting everyone. Lindsey patiently explains culture, custom, language, good, agriculture and trades, while translating. We are in awe. Its hot, really hot, from 11 to 5 so we sit and chase spots of shade around the compound, drinking "attaya", green tea boiled, reboiled, and poured over and over again so it gets foamy and cool. Everyone welcomes us very warmly and naturally. They are honored to have us but treat us like family, just like they treat Ramatoulie. They take care of her in every way and she reciprocates. The kids are great--handsome and fun--and the Dad, Baay Waly, watches out for her and respects her at the same time. The whole trip is great but the four days in KJJ are really amazing. Culture and Development Being in KJJ with Lindsey we are reminded of so much, including the difficulties of cross-cultural understanding. She tells us of how she works with the skills center on planning, meetings, agendas, and organization. Then she walked in one day to find the staff cutting the meeting tables in half so they could use them for the sewing machines. She went home to read a book. A sensible reaction from all parties. This isn't easy stuff, but we keep trying to understand one another and that's what counts. Moving and Waiting Patience is key--we move, and wait, and wait and move. Everything is late and takes longer than anticipated. We leave KJJ to ride boats up and down the river. We look at birds which are incredible even for non-birders like us. Peggy and Lindsey catch up on girl time, which poor Peggy has surely missed for a year and a half. And we all think about Casey and we're sorry it didn't work out for him to come, but we think about him tearing it up in Peru and we know he'd be happy for us. Then She Ate What??? We spend quite a bit of time talking about, planning for, and eating food. Lindsey is decidedly no longer a vegetarian. She now renounces it completely and totally. She eats great quantities of everything and with great relish. She has dreams about bacon. Day-old goat is not an issue. She claims to have a super amoeba that trumps all the lesser amoebas. Even David blanches at the story about the monitor lizard--we are not making this up. And We Laughed and Laughed Most importantly, we had fun, and we laughed because ultimately that's what its all about. We got a brief but telling glimpse into another world and it was a lot of fun. We are grateful. The Gambians say good things are "nice-nice" and "its nice to be nice." Healthy sentiments. Jerejef--Thank you!

"Meaningful Work"

Written on March 19th, 2011 I spent last week at a Peace Corps The Gambia All Volunteer conference. We spent a lot of time talking about being a "high performance post," volunteers needing to have "meaningful work" and Peace Corps 50th Anniversary. All this talk, and an article from the New Yorker, written by Paul Hesser (just sent to me by my Dad) have caused me to pause and consider what the legacy of Peace Corps service is in Peace Corps countries, like the Gambia. I know it is probably a bit self-important to assume that my personal experience at one post can speak for the Peace Corps legacy as a whole. But in the spirit of 50th anniversary generalization I am going to take a risk and try my hand at answering the question--"What is the legacy of Peace Corps?" Since I cam to PC The Gambia I have heard a lot about PCV performance. When you research the Peace Corps you come across a handful of books and articles. These tell the stories of a small proportion of PCVs who, due to a combination of charisma, intelligence, infrastructure, resources and sheer good luck have served their communities in amazing ways and created visible change (they build schools, dig wells, start health centers) that they, or someone else, has been able to document and publicize. These volunteers are 1) amazing and 2) offer a great image of the Peace Corps to the world. But for every one volunteer who publish a book highlighting their amazing service there are hundreds whose service is not marked by measurable work or achievements but whose service and impact is no less important. I think PC has been around for 50 years because of both types of volunteers. One really cannot exist without the other. In my post alone we have volunteers with 9 to 5 jobs and projects to bring clean water to entire villages, we also have volunteers who spend their days socializing, go to sell milk at the local market with friends, play with babies and one volunteer who spent a large part of their service hanging out with one women, becoming such close friends that they were able to come out to the women before they left, in a country where homosexuality is extremely taboo. It is these stories of service that I most relate to and that I more and more am coming to see as Peace Corps 5o year legacy. I recognize the importance of meaningful work and a measurable impact as a way to ensure US taxpayer dollars are being spent effectively and that the talents of PCVs are being used but the reality is, often, we need to focus on the personal relationships we establish and see this as our legacy. I read somewhere recently that PCVs often get disillusioned with tradition notions of development and down play their impact, claiming "the people I served impacted me more than I changed them"--the author claimed that this all came from a place of unfounded modesty--I however can related to both these sentiments. And rather than coming from a place of modesty I think it all comes from a place which seeks to recognize the equality between the PCV and those they serve. I have an incredibly hard time receiving praise here because I feel my community members deserve equal (if not greater praise) everyday. So....taking all this into account, what is the 50 year legacy of Peace Corps according to Lindsey Green? As hippy-dippy as it may sound it is love and equality. If I leave anything behind I hope my family and community knows that I love and care for them. Despite the fact that I won some cosmic jackpot and was born an American it doesn't make me any better or worse than anyone else. By living in and becoming a member of a community PCVs attempt to serve from a place of equality rather than a place of outsider-ness or superiority. If the legacy of PC is anything it is that America is a country that produces many people who want to spread love and understanding through service. I would love to write a book about fundamentally changing the access to health care in my community but I would also be OK if my entire service could be summed up by simply drawing a big heart.

You Are Highly Welcome

Written on February 13th, 2011

There are a lot of things that I worry about when it comes to returning to America. Nose picking and spitting food (i.e. fish bones) on the ground while eating being two of them. I have also though about elements of professional life that are very different and how I will readjust--the most prominent being meetings. Let me highlight some aspects of the Gambian meeting (and let this serve as a warning to my potential future employees in America).

• Starting Time: whenever someone gives me a time that a meeting is supposed to start I do a very intricate calculation in order to determine what time it will actually start. Factors to consider include whose supposed to attend the meeting, what topics are to be discussed, what day of the week it is, how often the group meeting usually meets and if lunch will be provided. Generally I take the proposed starting time as more of a suggestion of what time I should start to think about getting ready in my compound. This being said I am still usually the first to arrive and wait anywhere from 1 to 3 hours for the meeting to start. Hence my Peace Corps (and life) motto--"Bring a book."
• Agenda: A large portion of the "agenda" is reserved for people to give "remarks." Though this is a good practice everyone wants to talk so everyone gives their remarks which are usually very similar derivations of: greeting, thanking Allah for helping them meet, singing the praises of the group/previous speakers, giving advice to the group and relating a long and detailed story of how they came to join the group/attend the meeting. All of these remarks take up so much time that everyone is either exhausted or argumentative when the actual meetings business is commenced. For example at the meeting of skills center representatives I attended yesterday the remarks took from noon to 6 pm with a short prayer break. The only other business completed in this time was the chair reading the groups constitution in English and then translating it into Wolof. By 6 pm everyone was starving so we closed and ate lunch. (Yes, lunch at six o'clock at night, I was about ready to eat my arm) Then they decided to take a break and meet again from midnight to 3 am to plan for the next years activities (the main purpose for calling the meeting in the first place). I didn't make it all the way to 3 am and bowed out and went to bed at 2.
• Multi-Tasking: If I remember correctly it has been somewhat acceptable in America to multi-task during meetings i.e. check email on Blackberrys and respond. But beyond that everyone at least makes a show of paying attention. Here multi-tasking takes on a new meaning. Naps, reading books (usually this is just me), taking and making phone calls, hair braiding, brewing attaya, breastfeeding, playing games on cellphones are all common forms of multi-tasking during a Gambian meeting.
• Networking: In America you get a business card. In the Gambia you get this text message: "RAMATULIE DEFINATELY, ITS TODAY THAT I MEET U, BUT REALLY U ARE IN MY HEART. I REALLY LIKE U TO ACCEPT MY KINDLY LOVE. DAMALA NOB BU BAAX." Enough said.

Entertain the People

Written on February 1, 2011

My experience with drama is very very minimal to say the very least. One line in two years of elementary school plays and a sixth grade turn as a man in the "Prince and the Pauper" has not an experienced actor made me. This past weekend however, lack of theatrical experience aside, I found myself organizing a drama tour with my peer health club. This past November six of my students acted in a drama on HIV/AIDS bike trek. Thanks to the extreme enthusiasm of a few teachers and the enjoyment of the students my group continued the drama and decided they wanted to take the drama to the villages from which the students come everyday to go to school. A few months later after revision and translation into Wolof myself, twenty students and six teachers spend a Saturday going to four different communities and presenting a thirty minute lecture and drama on HIV/AIDS addressing how the disease works, transmission, protection and stigma. We were quite a sight rolling into each village with a huge stereo set and speakers and all the students crammed into the back of a pick-up truck. Once in each village we would set up the speakers and blast music in an attempt to attract the attention of as many villagers as possible. Mr. Bah, one of the peer health club advisers, would implore all of the students to "entertain the people." This manifested itself as dancing, clapping and yelling. Once we had amassed a crowd of men, women and hundreds of small children the program would start. Four students gave a lecture on HIV supported with visual aides they made themselves. Afterwards the six students would act the drama called, "I'm Not a Sickness I'm a Son" in Wolof and the program ended with more clapping and dancing. After going through this in four villages we were all exhausted but the students seemed extremely energized by the village sensitization. For both the students and their parents, friends and family in their home villages it was very powerful to see/show what they've learned in school about HIV. This topic is still very taboo in the Gambia, as is talking about sex, so for the students to talk about these topics openly in front of their elders was difficult. If anything is to change however about the attitude toward HIV there needs to be a conversation and the first step to start that is for people to start feeling comfortable to say "sex," "HIV" and "condom" out loud. I hope in some small part our program helped start that conversation.

Get Tested!!

Written on January 27th, 2010

Today I want to tell you all about my friend Abdullahi.
Abdullahi is one of my neighbors in KJJ. I've known him since about my second day living here when he helped me fix my bike tire. He's a husband and father of five. He's active with the skills center, often comes to our literacy classes and is a self taught English speaker, he's never been to school.
All of this being said I don't usually spend that much time hanging out with 'Lai though wherever he sees me hes happy to see me and likewise. A few months ago when I came back to KJJ after finishing the HIV/AIDs bike trek he came by my compound and we were talking about the bike trek and some of the things we had taught the students about HIV. We talked a lot about how a very important way to protect yourself is to know your HIV status and to go for Voluntary Counseling and Testing (VCT) which is available for free in some health centers. At the end of our conversation he mentioned that he wanted to go get tested so he could know his status. I told him that I would support him as much as possible in going to get tested and we agreed that whenever he was ready I would go with him to Kerewan to get tested. After that, I got really busy with schools and holidays and Lai got busy in the fields. A few weeks ago however he approached me again about going and we made a plan to go today.
At 9 am Lai showed up in my compound dressed in a nice white complet and all ready to go to Kerewan. As we waited by the side of the road for a car we talked about some of the reasons AIDS is a problem in Africa/The Gambia and some of the things that have reduced the prevalence rate in the US--like condom use and people getting tested, both men and women.
Testing in the Gambia is a huge problem because of the high stigma associated with having HIV. All pregnant women are asked to go get tested as a means to counter mother to child transmission and therefore the majority of testing comes from pregnant women. Testing of men however is practically non-existent and for men to voluntarily go for testing is uncommon.
This is what makes Lai such a gem. He decided to go get tested on his own so that he could know because, "It's good to know about yourself." Once we got to the health center things were a breeze. I had met the man who does VCT coincidentally the week before so as always in the Gambia it was helpful to already have that relationship. It was a little nerve wracking going through the process with Lai and I could tell he was nervous also. I had to cover his eyes when they drew his blood and when they gave him his negative result we high 5'd and hugged--two things Gambians don't do. After it was all over Lai told me how happy he was to know his status and beyond that how he wanted to tell all his friend about his experience so they wouldn't be afraid to go get tested. Within two hours of being back in KJJ he had talked to three people who now want to get tested and just wanted me to call the doctor to make sure they had as easy a time as him.
I am so awestruck and humbled by the quiet determination of my friend. He has no reason to be so concerned about this other than he just wants to do the right thing and protect himself, his family and his village.
I sometimes would get the sense in America that people saw HIV testing as unnecessary, something for druggies and promiscuous young people, but if my experience with my friend Lai taught me anything its that we should all know our status if for no other reason than as a support to people around the world, like him, who are determined to fight stigma, raise awareness and live their life, without fear, with dignity and honesty. So I urge all of you to go get tested, know your status and think of my friend Lai who really is a shining example of courage and selflessness.

"What is pus??"

Written on January 21st, 2011
Yesterday I spent the morning at the senior secondary school attending a lecture on Tuberculosis, HIV/AIDS and STIs with my peer health club students. It was very much a fly by the seat of your pants session. Clearly the group that organized it had some extra funds they wanted to use up so they decided to call in a local nurse from Kerewan to talk to the students. Don't get me wrong, this is all well and good, well intentioned and much needed but as I've noticed lately with my work here, myself and the people I work with sometimes enthusiasm over the different that will be made overrides planning and consideration. I'm certainly guilty of getting so wrapped up and excited that I don't really take the time to consider important factors like my audience, their needs and sustainability.
This lecture came after almost six months of work on my part and the part of another agency to educate the students abut HIV/AIDS. Something we hadn't talked about at all is TB, so a session just on that would have been great but throwing STIs, HIV and TB together just caused a lot of confusion and repetition of information. I hardly could follow the presenter so I'm sure that the students didn't do much better. Because the presentation was so bad I found myself zoning out and thinking about what conclusions I can draw after a year of attending events at Gambian schools.
I think my most interesting observation has been that though all Gambian students are English language learners, i.e. they don't speak English at home, teaching and curriculum here is not geared towards ESL. Though English is the official language of the Gambia in reality so little of the population is literate in/speaks English that assuming that students will learn effectively without any attention given to their English learning status is really just setting them up for failure. The natural reaction to this system is for students to just memorize what they learn which means they can answer questions if they've memorized them but have very little ability for original or abstract thought. In addition asking questions is seen not as a tool for learning but a failure of the students. At this lecture the presenter threw out hundreds of very scientific terminology for STIs (including pus) but refused to answer students questions when they raised their hands asking them to write their questions down for the end of the lesson, effectively telling them not to ask any questions.
For me, coming from a background where inquiry and questions were celebrated this orientation is both extremely frustrating and discouraging. I wonder how many things would be different here if people celebrated rather than demonized what we don't know.

You Can Help!!!

It's a very very exciting day for me here in the Gambia. For the past few months I have been working to develop a health and nutrition education competition for the women in my village. My goal is to provide them with basic health and nutrition education in a fun and interactive way. They get points for participating in the different elements of the competition and at the end we will have a big community celebration where the women will share what they have learned and win prizes. Most importantly the women in my village, many of whom have never had the opportunity to go to school, will get a chance to educate themselves and be seen as resource people by the community. I've spoken a ot about how much the women in my village inspire me. But after a year in Kerr Jarga these women are also my friends. We laugh together, cook together and talk about life, theirs and mine, this is my small way of trying to help them and thank them for their friendship and support. I am truly humbled by the way they have all embraced me.So where do y'all come in? Unfortunately though health knowledge is free running this competition will not be free. So I am trying to raise money for my project through Peace Corps Partnership. A program where people can go to the Peace Corps website and donate to my project. I would really appreciate any support you all could provide. The total I need to raise is $764.79 so every little bit will help. A ot of you have asked me how you can help me in my work here and this is a way that you really can make a difference in the lives of the amazing women of Kerr Jarga. I promise to keep you all updated on the competition with pictures and blogs.So.....if my pitch has peaked your interest you can follow the link below to donate!
https://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=donate.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=635-069